Monday, 5 May 2025

What to see in Europe by train...in a week!

 

✈️ European Trip May 2025 (Part 1: Days 1–5)

Hi all — thanks for reading my blog. This is Part 1, with at least one more part to follow once I’ve recovered and figured out the rest of the route.

✍️ Day One – London to Brussels

Took the Eurostar from St Pancras to Brussels Midi/Zuid (South), which was surprisingly simple and smooth.

The journey takes around 2 hours — not much longer than flying once you factor in airport security, transfers, and general waiting around.

My hotel, the Hilton Garden Inn, is about 1km from the station, making everything very convenient.

After arriving, I went for a walk and grabbed dinner at a local bistro — Belgian stew and frites, which was excellent.




 

Tomorrow will be a long day: a 09:25 train from Brussels to Munich, with a change in Cologne. Around 7.5 hours in total, but hopefully with some good scenery along the way.


        ✍️ Day 2 – Brussels to Munich via Cologne

A short walk (1.5km) brought me to Brussels station, which was packed — very similar to major UK stations, though with better food options.

I boarded the Eurostar for the first leg, passing through Liège and Aachen (Hürtgen Forest nearby — one to return for in future).

We stopped briefly in Cologne:

The Cologne Cathedral is one of Germany’s most iconic landmarks — a stunning Gothic structure that took over 600 years to complete.




 

The remainder of the journey was long but uneventful:

  • ~2 hours to Cologne
  • ~5.5 hours to Munich

Think London to Glasgow… and then some.

Arrived at Munich Hbf, then took the S-Bahn to Leuchtenbergring — not the most scenic area, about 3.5km from the city centre.

At least the weather is expected to be around 22–23°C tomorrow, so plenty of walking ahead.


✍️ Day 3 – Munich Old Town and History Walk

Left the hotel after breakfast and walked toward Munich Old Town (around 3km).

I detoured slightly to visit the Justizpalast and the memorial connected to the White Rose resistance group.

The White Rose were a non-violent student resistance group against the Nazi regime. Members including Hans and Sophie Scholl were executed in 1943 after distributing anti-Nazi leaflets.

Unfortunately, the building was closed, but I later found a memorial near Hofgarten and the English Garden.



St Michael’s Church

Not to be deterred by the apparent closure of a number of places I had earmarked for visiting, I headed to St. Michael’s Church – A late Renaissance Jesuit church from the 16th century, and one of Munich’s most impressive buildings.

It survived WWII bombings and contains remarkable artwork and historical tombs, including members of Bavarian royalty.






 

⛪ Frauenkirche

My next stop was FrauenkircheAlso known as the Cathedral of Our Dear Lady, this 15th-century Gothic church with its iconic twin domed towers is one of Munich’s most recognized landmarks. It was impressive but, in my humble opinion, not as nice as St. Michael’s. It felt a bit darker and more subdued.





 

🏙 Marienplatz and Old Town Center

By the time I left Frauenkirche it had started to rain, which wasn’t entirely a bad thing as it had been getting a tad warm, around 20–22°C. A quick stop into a nearby shop to purchase yet another umbrella and I was back on my way, this time to one of the main squares in the ‘Old Town’, MarienplatzThe central square in Munich’s Old Town, home to the New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus) and its famous Glockenspiel.



 

📸 Odeonsplatz

I headed over to OdeonsplatzA large square built in the early 19th century in a classical style, surrounded by notable buildings like the Theatine Church and Feldherrnhalle, and closely tied to both Bavarian military history and Nazi-era events.
 



Whilst in the area, I also took the opportunity to visit Hofgarten and Residenz MünchenHofgarten is a peaceful Italian-style Renaissance garden, while the Munich Residenz is the former royal palace of the Bavarian monarchs, showcasing opulent rooms and a vast collection of art and historical artifacts.


 


 

One thing about Munich is that the main city center is, like many other European cities, very compact, so you can squeeze a lot into a day of walking. In my best attempt to do as much squeezing as possible, I headed to the southeastern section of the ‘Old Town’ to visit the site of what was the largest synagogue in Munich prior to the HolocaustThe main synagogue was destroyed during Kristallnacht in 1938, a tragic symbol of the Nazi regime’s campaign against Jewish communities. A memorial now marks the site.


 


 🍺 Hofbräuhaus Lunch

By now it was approaching noon and I had been walking for 3 hours, so I figured it was time for lunch. When in Munich, at least for me, you have to visit Hofbräuhaus at least once. It is the definition of iconic German beer halls – Established in the 16th century, it's one of Munich’s oldest beer halls and is famous for its traditional Bavarian beer, hearty food, and lively atmosphere. At 12:15, it was packed with people singing and drinking. I found a table and ordered a house beer and schnitzel.

Lunch was pleasant. I met a young couple from Nuremberg—he's a footballer who will, no doubt be in the EPL, and she's about to start law studies at university. They were friendly and checked out my blog. Thanks for the chat! 😊

Leaving Hofbrauhaus with a full belly, I headed away from the ‘Old Town’ aiming to visit Englischer Garden which is a large park to the Northeast that runs along the river Iser. 

S
-Englischer Garten 3/5/25 (Ian Thompson)


Pagoda-Englischer Garten 3/5/25 (Ian Thompson)


I really only wanted to get some steps in as I have been pretty sedentary recently and need to get back into walking. The park was nice but what made the detour worthwhile was finding the Archaologische Staatssammlung, a nice little archaeological museum…and I like all things old so it was a nice find.

 

Archaologische Staatssammlung-Roman Statue 3/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

 

Archaologische Staatssammlung-Bust 3/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

Archaologische Staatssammlung-3rd/4th Century Roman Mosaic 3/5/25 (Ian Thompson)


✈️ Day 4 – Munich to Istanbul (Travel Day)

The 4th of May was a travel day. Up early for breakfast in the hotel then caught the S-Bahn to Munich Airport. I was, a bit, surprised at the price of the ticket, 14.3 Euros, but attribute that to the ‘Holiday Inn Markup’.

Pretty uneventful trip if I were to be honest. One Traveler Tip though and that is, if you are returning to Munich, use the Service Center to store any luggage that you don’t want to drag around. I decided to just take my laptop bag and one day’s change of clothes and to leave my backpack. One of the reasons is that I was flying Ajet and Pegasus both of which are budget and I had never flown on them before. I did not want to risk a huge charge when it costs 4 euros per day to leave the bag at the airport.

Comfortable and uneventful flight to Sabhia Gokcen (SAW) airport. Now, here’s the thing, there are two airports that service Istanbul, the other being IST. It is important to know that SAW is on the Asian side of the city, approximately 42 km from the center. You can take the metro, bus or taxi. As it had been a long day, I opted to take a taxi. Be prepared, it will be around £40 if they take the highway (with tolls but quicker).

⚠️ Traveller Tip

Check passport stamps. Mine wasn’t stamped on entry — only noticed later.


✍️ Day 5 – Istanbul (Hagia Sophia and Bosphorus)

🕌 Hagia Sophia

Busy day on the 5th of May as had to get out early to be back to take a call at noon….so, up early, no breakfast (could do without it anyway TBH) and out the door at 0830. The first stop, and one of the main reasons for the trip, was to Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque. Originally constructed in 537 AD under the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, this architectural masterpiece served as the world’s largest cathedral for nearly a thousand years. With the Ottoman conquest in 1453, it was transformed into a mosque, adding elegant minarets and Islamic calligraphy to its already rich Christian mosaics. In 1935, it became a museum, symbolizing Turkey’s secular turn, and in 2020, it was reconverted into a mosque—yet it remains open to visitors of all backgrounds.

Stepping inside feels like walking through a living museum of empires. Light filters through countless windows, illuminating both glittering mosaics of Christ and Mary and vast medallions bearing Arabic script. The mix of Byzantine and Ottoman elements tells a story not just of conquest, but of cultural fusion. Whether you’re a history buff like me, an architecture lover, or a curious traveller, Hagia Sophia offers an unforgettable glimpse into the soul of Istanbul—where East meets West and past meets present.

 

Interior of Hagia Sofia 1, 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

Interior of Hagia Sofia 2, 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

Me with courtyard of Hagia Sofia behind me, 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

Exerior of Hagia Sofia, 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

Definitely a must for people’s bucket list!

There's always time for a coffee and a croissant in Ian's world 😃

Hagia Sophia is in an area of immense importance with the Hippodrome, also known as Al Meydani or “Plaza of Horse” and its Obelisks. Once the beating heart of Byzantine Constantinople, the Hippodrome was a grand stadium where chariot races, political drama, and imperial ceremonies unfolded. Though little remains of its original structure, today’s Sultanahmet Square still echoes its past with monuments like the Egyptian Obelisk and Serpent Column.

Serpent Obelisk, 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)


Egyptian Obelisk, 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

 

A nice little addition to the visitt is theHagia Sofia museum. Traveller Tip: It is very expensive, 40 euros, to enter the museum and a few other sites so be forewarned. I'd also add that, having been to many museums, I felt it was way too pricey!

Hagia Sofia Museum-Holy Koran 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

Hagia Sofia Museum-Christian Icon 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

There is , also, the ‘Blue Mosque’. Standing opposite Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque—officially the Sultan Ahmed Mosque—is one of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks. Completed in 1616, it stuns visitors with its elegant symmetry, cascading domes, and especially its six minarets—a rare feature that once stirred controversy. At the time, only the Grand Mosque in Mecca had six minarets, prompting concern that the sultan’s mosque was overreaching. To resolve the issue, a seventh minaret was added to Mecca’s Mosque, restoring its unique status.

Note: Photo credit to (AA) as appeared in Daily Sabbah 21-4-23

After my call, it was back on the trail of more history. This time it was in the direction of the Bosphorus, the strait which separates Western European Istanbul with Eastern Asian Istanbul. What I discovered was that much like Rome or Athens but on a much smaller scale, Istanbul has a lot of Roman ruins dotted everywhere. There is a small archaeological site, IBB Arkeoloji Park, which was closed but I managed to get a photo of. It was a bit of a shame as, despite it being small, it could have been better preserved and available.

 

IBB Arkeoloji Park, 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

🌉 Aqueduct of Valens

I, then, headed towards the Bosphorus. The first thing that I encountered was the Aqueduct of Valens. Stretching gracefully across the modern streets of Istanbul, the Aqueduct of Valens is a striking reminder of the city’s Roman past. Completed in 368 AD during the reign of Emperor Valens, this massive stone structure was part of a sophisticated water system that served Constantinople for over a millennium. Its arches once channelled fresh water into palaces, baths, and fountains—an engineering marvel that kept the imperial capital thriving.

Today, the aqueduct stands proudly above Atatürk Boulevard, seamlessly blending into the rhythm of a bustling city. Though cars now pass beneath its arches instead of water, the Aqueduct of Valens remains a powerful symbol of Istanbul’s layered history—where ancient innovation meets the present day.

 

Aqueduct of Valens 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

Passing beneath the Aqueduct, I discovered a bustling market street. Given that it was now 2pm, I figured I’d find a restaurant for some lunch. I decided upon one that had the most locals and that was the Sur Ocakbasi. The lunch was fantastic! It was tasty and inexpensive coming in around 450 Turkish Lyra (about £8.75) which was much less than any food I’d had since starting my trip!

 


🌊 Bosphorus

I managed, after lunch, to make it to the Bosphorus. In the end, it wasn’t to accomplish anything other than to be able to document the place where East meets West…box now ticked and it’s back towards the hotel.

 

View of the Bosphorus from European side 5/5/25 (Ian Thompson)

Had a bit of a detour...found another museum! There are quite a few scattered over Istanbul so, if you are into such things then you'll be happy!





By the way...these guys are everywhere. I am not a cat fan, more a dog person, but these guys are pretty cute. They even have machines where you can buy food to feed them!



That’s Days 1–5 done — a mix of cities, trains, long walks, and way too many station platforms.

I’ve been trying to see as much as possible in a short time, but I’m curious how others would approach it.

Would you do a fast-paced trip like this, or would you pick one or two countries and explore them more deeply instead?









Monday, 31 March 2025

Must see Jordan including Petra-a beginners guide

 

🌍 Jordan Trip – March 2025

Welcome back blog readers! Apologies for the extended delay but, by popular demand (well… one person), I’m back. 🙂

This time, a short trip to Jordan from 26–30 March 2025.


✈️ Arrival and First Impressions

The flight itself was smooth, although Heathrow was probably the busiest I’ve ever seen it.

One unexpected highlight came as we approached Jordan — I managed to catch a view of Orion and the Milky Way from the plane. It was the first time I’ve seen anything like that in such clarity. Unfortunately, the photos didn’t come close to capturing what it actually looked like.

Not going to embarrass myself with those attempts. ☹

One of the more pleasant surprises came on arrival at Queen Alia Airport. I had been slightly concerned about visa requirements, especially after failing to secure an e-visa beforehand. In the end, the process couldn’t have been easier — less than five minutes, no issues, and no cost for a single-entry visa.

Traveller Tip:
Start with a single-entry visa. If you plan to cross into places like Israel or Saudi Arabia, you can purchase additional visas later. This can save around 40 JOD (~£42) compared to a multiple-entry visa. Alternatively, the Jordan Pass is worth looking into.

 

🌆 Day 1 – Aqaba

I didn’t arrive in Aqaba until 04:10, so after a few hours’ sleep, I headed out to explore.

Aqaba sits at the southern tip of Jordan and is very much a resort city. It’s known more for diving and nightlife than history, and it feels exactly like you’d expect — hot, dry, dusty, and a little rough around the edges.

I’d probably compare it loosely to Malta, although with less emphasis on upkeep and cleanliness.

That said, there are still historical pockets worth seeing. I came across Aqaba Fort, dating back to the early 1500s, which played a role in the 1917 Arab Revolt.

 



               

 

 











💭 Personal Note

Solo travel isn’t for everyone. It can be surprisingly lonely at times — especially when you’re eating or sitting somewhere on your own for long stretches. ☹

 

🏜 Day 2 – Petra

⚠️ Personal Note #2

Driving in Jordan is… an experience. Take care.


Once my driver arrived and we aligned on the plan for the day, things settled down a bit.

The journey from Aqaba to Petra (around 100km) took longer than expected, but eventually we reached the visitor centre, where entry cost 50 JOD — not cheap, but understandable given the site.

One decision I’d strongly recommend: enter Petra from the rear entrance.

This allows you to walk through the site toward the main entrance, rather than doubling back. Doing it the traditional way adds around 4–5km and about 90 minutes.


🏛 Exploring Petra

From the entrance, it’s roughly a 1km downhill walk. By this point, temperatures were already around 28°C with direct sun, so water and head covering are essential.

The first major site was the Turkumaniyya Tombs — some of the oldest structures in Petra, carved directly into the rock. Like much of the site, they highlight the remarkable engineering and cultural sophistication of the Nabataeans.

 



 








Continuing on, the path curves left at Qasr al-Bint before leading onto Colonnaded Street — once the commercial heart of the city.

On one side sits the Great Palace, covering around 7,000 square metres. The street itself was later developed further under Roman influence around 100–150 AD.

Around this point, I gave in to the heat and upgraded my makeshift neck covering to a proper Arabic scarf from one of the many vendors — a wise decision in hindsight.

 

A stone wall with columns

AI-generated content may be incorrect.

 

Further along, the route passes the Nymphaeum and opens up to some of the most striking tombs in Petra:

  • Palace Tomb
  • Corinthian Tomb
  • Silk Tomb

On the opposite side sits the Theatre, carved directly into the rock — easily one of the most impressive features of the site.

 

A large rocky mountain with a building in the background

AI-generated content may be incorrect.

 

At this stage, you have a choice:

  • Head uphill toward the High Place of Sacrifice and Al-Habis
  • Or continue forward toward the canyon and Treasury

Given the heat (now over 30°C), I opted to conserve energy and continue forward.

🏞 The Canyon and Treasury

At this stage, I continued forward toward the canyon rather than heading uphill.

The slot canyon itself is genuinely impressive — a narrow, winding passage with steep rock walls rising up on either side, shaped over centuries by erosion. In places it feels almost enclosed, with the light shifting constantly as you move through it.

That said, having seen similar formations in the US, I’d still say those in southern Utah just edge it in terms of overall scale and colour — but this is still very much worth experiencing.

After walking for around 500 metres, you arrive at Petra’s most famous structure: the Treasury.

It’s one of those sights that you instantly recognise, even if you’ve only ever seen it in documentaries or photos. And while those images don’t really do it justice, what struck me most was that Petra is far more than just this one building.

The Treasury itself is impressive — intricate, imposing, and clearly the centrepiece of the site — but somewhat surprisingly, entry isn’t permitted. From what I’ve seen of the interior elsewhere, I suspect it may not live up to expectations anyway.

From here, I followed the path out through the canyon at a more relaxed pace, taking in the surroundings and, of course, stopping at one of the many stalls to pick up the obligatory fridge magnet.

 

⚠️ Personal Note #3

The area is filled with stalls selling similar items — scarves, jewellery, magnets, etc.

Prices are noticeably higher than elsewhere, and you’ll be approached frequently. Best to be polite but firm if you’re not interested.

A stone structure with pillars

AI-generated content may be incorrect.

 

The full route took me about 2 hours 15 minutes at a relaxed pace.

Recommendation:

  • 2–3 hours (rear entrance route)
  • Add ~90 minutes if starting and finishing at the visitor centre

 

🌍 Day 3 – Israel (Eilat)

The final day of the trip.

I decided to cross into Israel via the Itzhak Rabin Terminal. In typical fashion, I hadn’t done a huge amount of preparation — and quickly discovered that a visa was required.

After a slightly stern conversation with a border guard, I completed the application online and was approved for a 7-day visa within minutes. Cost: 7 shekels (~£2).


I took a taxi into Eilat, another resort-style destination focused more on leisure than history.

To be honest, it didn’t particularly stand out. The visit was more about setting foot in Israel than exploring the city itself.

 

Finally, I made my way into Israel and took a taxi to Eilat. Eilat is another popular tourist destination, primarily known for its nightlife and scuba diving rather than any historical significance. I managed to do a bit of sightseeing, but in all honesty, I wasn’t overly impressed by the city.

 

A body of water with a city in the background

AI-generated content may be incorrect.

 

My primary reason for visiting was to experience Israel first hand, but I feel that a future trip to Jerusalem or Tel Aviv would offer a more authentic and comprehensive experience of the country.

 

🧭 Final Thoughts

This was my first solo trip of 2025 — short, intense, and a mix of great experiences and a few reminders that travelling alone isn’t always as glamorous as it sounds.

Jordan itself was fascinating, particularly Petra, which absolutely lives up to its reputation despite the crowds and cost.


❓ Question

For those who’ve travelled in the region:

Would you prioritise Petra again, or spend more time exploring places like Wadi Rum, Jerusalem, or elsewhere in the Middle East?

 

 

 

Monday, 10 June 2019

Normandy D-Day 75th Anniversary: Omaha Beach, Utah Beach, Sainte-Mère-Église & American Cemetery

✍️Normandy D-Day 75th Anniversary Trip

Welcome back — and apologies for the lack of recent posts.

After spending the last couple of years living in the United States, my travelling has unfortunately taken a back seat. This trip marks my first major blog entry since returning to the UK.

This visit to Normandy, France, was particularly significant as it coincided with the 75th anniversary of the D-Day landings — the Allied invasion of June 6th, 1944.

What made the experience even more poignant was the presence of surviving veterans. Their numbers are now very small, most being in their mid-90s, and it is increasingly likely that future commemorations will see very few — if any — D-Day veterans still able to attend.


✈️ Travel to Normandy – Flying into Paris CDG and Driving to St-Lô

In typical fashion, my planning left a lot to be desired.

Instead of taking the ferry to Caen and travelling by train, my son Travis and I ended up flying into Paris CDG and driving over 320km to our base in St-Lô.

I had very little organised beyond simply showing up.

Fortunately, a good friend, Frances Sherr-Davino, kindly added us to her tour. Frances focuses on the 29th Infantry Division, which gave me an entirely new perspective on the invasion.





🪖 Meeting the 29th Infantry Division – Personal Connections to WWII History

It’s still slightly surreal that I ended up joining a 29th ID group.

The division was formed in 1941 and originally consisted largely of National Guard soldiers. Their first base was Fort Meade, Maryland — about 10 miles from where I grew up.

It’s strange to think that I spent time around a place so closely tied to a unit that would go on to play such a major role in D-Day.

The cost of that role was significant:

  • Total casualties: 20,620
  • Killed in action: 3,887
  • Wounded: 15,541
  • Missing: 347
  • POW: 845


🌅 Omaha Beach Sunrise Ceremony – D-Day Landing Commemorations

Our first full day (June 6th) started early — very early.

We headed to Dog Sector of Omaha Beach for a sunrise ceremony commemorating the actions of the 116th Regiment, 29th ID.

Standing there as the sun rose over the beach, it’s hard not to reflect on how different the scene would have been 75 years earlier.


Omaha at sunrise

⚰️ American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer – 9,000 Graves of the Fallen

From there, we moved to the American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer.

This is where we met the veteran we would spend time with over the coming days: SSgt Leonard Jendra.


Myself and Leonard.

Leonard is an amazing man, lots of energy for someone in their mid 90's and he speaks Czech and French!

Much of the day was spent at the cemetery:

  • listening to speeches from President Macron and President Trump
  • watching performances by the 82nd Airborne choir and band
  • and, occasionally, spotting the odd politician

But it’s impossible to ignore the real reason for being there.




Over 9,000 headstones stretch across the cemetery — a constant reminder of the cost of that day.



One of the most meaningful parts of these events is the opportunity to meet veterans.

Whenever I attend, I try to shake as many hands and have as many conversations as possible.

Without exception, they are humble, gracious, and often slightly uncomfortable with being called heroes — despite clearly being exactly that.






🪂 Sainte-Mère-Église – 82nd Airborne Drop Zone and John Steele Memorial

Day 2 was more independent.

We started at Sainte-Mère-Église, in the 82nd Airborne sector — famous for the story of John Steele, the paratrooper caught on the church steeple.

Even a day after the anniversary, the town was still busy, with ongoing ceremonies and a number of veterans still present.





🌉 La Fière Bridge – 82nd Airborne and One of the Bloodiest Small Unit Battles

From there, we travelled just outside town to La Fière Bridge over the Merderet River.

This was the site of one of the most intense small-unit battles of the campaign.

Elements of the 82nd Airborne (including the 505th PIR and 325th GIR) fought against German units including the 91st Air Landing Division.

The importance of the bridge cannot be overstated — had it fallen, the security of the beach landings could have been compromised.

Around 150 paratroopers and glider troops died here in just 24 hours.

One quote from the battle has always stuck with me:

“No better place to die.”
— 1st Lt John “Red Dog” Dolan






**Really looking forward to the upcoming Dale Dye movie about the battle!!**


The first picture following is the actual bridge at La Fiere...


The next photo is of the memorial to the 82nd and 325th soldiers who took part in the battle...


The last two pictures are of the chapel shown o the aerial view above and a memorial which is located 50 yards from the chapel next to the road.



Following our visit to La Fiere we drove NW to Utah beach, stopping to visit the Major Dick Winters leadership memorial. We also managed to visit the St Come Du Mont church (see previous blog post for more details and photos) before heading to the actual beach.



🌊 Utah Beach and the Atlantic Wall – The Western D-Day Landing Sector

We spent the rest of the afternoon driving around the western portions of the D-Day areas. We drove north to the Utah Beach museum (See previous blog post for more details) then along the coast. It is amazing that, after 75 years, there are still significant remains of the 'Atlantic Wall' still visible and accessible. 



The sky was grey and ominous much as I would have imagined it to be 75 years ago.


We also visited several nearby memorials, including those dedicated to:

  • US units such as the 90th Division
  • the Free French forces under General Leclerc





🪖 Pathfinder Memorial and 101st Airborne Causeways

On the way back, we travelled via one of the famous causeways — key objectives for the 101st Airborne in the early hours of D-Day.

We stopped briefly at the Pathfinder memorial, marking the first US troops to land in Normandy.







🏛 St James Cemetery and Hill 203 – The Liberation of Vire

Rejoining the 29th ID group, we headed inland.

Many visitors focus only on the beaches, but there’s a huge amount of history within a short drive.

We visited St James American Cemetery, which contains over 4,000 graves. Smaller than Colleville, but no less moving. 


The group then had a quiet ceremony where Leonard laid flowers at the grave of a 29th ID MoH recipient.


After leaving St James the group travelled to Vire. The 29th ID fought in and around Vire towards the end of the Normandy Campaign (July-August). One of the key battles in the liberation of Vire was for Hill 203. The hill rises up from the river into the town and was the scene of intense fighting. The local mayor and politicians help a ceremony at the site of the battle where a memorial has been placed. The pictures below show the ceremony at the Hill 203 memorial and the view from the hill to the river which gives you an indication of the scale of the task.





I have included a map of the troop movements from mid July into August to give you an understanding of how massive the operation was and where Vire and the US 1st Army was as part of the big picture.



As usual, the French put on a fantastic effort for the vets and their families. The ceremony on Hill 203 was followed by a ceremony in the town itself, attended by close to a 1000 residents. The Mayor followed that up with a reception which included a significant amount of Calvados. :-)



⚔️ Falaise Pocket and Montormel Museum – Closing the Normandy Campaign

The final day of our long 75th anniversary of D-Day trip was centered around travelling back to Paris to fly home and get back to the realities of life. However, that didn't stop me from hitting another major area of interest. Although it is considered post Normandy and part of the breakout rather than the actual campaign it's still of such importance it deserves even a quick visit. I have included a map to show the shear scale of the operation which included American, British, Canadian and Polish troops.


What is important to note is that the terrain is key to this battle. The terrain, while not substantially high especially to the north contributed to funnelling the German 7th Army to the east. This combined with huge areas where there is very little in the way of cover meant that it was like shooting fish in a barrel. 

The following is a Wikipedia summary of the last part of the battle...

On 8 August, the Allied ground forces commander, General Bernard Montgomery, ordered the Allied armies to converge on the Falaise–Chambois area to envelop Army Group B, with the First US Army forming the southern arm, the British the base, and the Canadians the northern arm of the encirclement. The Germans began to withdraw on 17 August, and on 19 August the Allies linked up in Chambois. Gaps were forced in the Allied lines by German counter-attacks, the biggest being a corridor forced past the 1st Polish Armoured Division on Hill 262, a commanding position at the mouth of the pocket. By the evening of 21 August, the pocket had been sealed, with c. 50,000 Germans trapped inside. Many Germans escaped, but losses in men and equipment were huge. A few days later, the Allied Liberation of Paris was completed, and on 30 August the remnants of Army Group B retreated across the Seine, which ended Operation Overlord.


We had a few minutes, literally only 15, to walk through the museum. The museum itself is very small, bordering on tiny, but does give some perspective to the battle. Additionally, the views from the museum are stunning and you can imagine the carnage that took place there 75 years ago.



🧭 Final Thoughts

This was, without question, one of the most meaningful trips I’ve taken.

Even after multiple visits to Normandy, there is always something new to discover — new stories, new locations, and new people. All in all, this was a fantastic experience! I have been to Normandy many times and I am finding new things to see every time and I always meet some fantastic people.

❓ Question

For those interested in WWII history:

Would you focus on the beaches themselves, or spend more time exploring the lesser-known inland battle sites?

🙏 Acknowledgement

My sincere thanks to Frances Sherr-Davino and the 29th ID group for allowing us to join them. The experience wouldn’t have been the same without you.