Welcome back blog readers! Apologies for the extended delay but, by popular demand (well one person) I am back. :-)
Visit to Jordan, 26-30th March 2025
The flight was smooth, though it was probably the busiest
I’ve ever experienced at London Heathrow. One particularly memorable moment was
as we approached Jordan, when I was able to capture a stunning view of Orion
and the Milky Way. This was my first time seeing such a sight, though, to my
disappointment, my photos did not do it justice.
Not going to embarrass myself with my photos from
the plane. ☹
One of the most positive aspects of the trip was my
experience at Queen Alia Airport. I had been concerned about visa requirements,
as I had attempted to secure an e-visa online without success. As a result, I
was reliant on obtaining a visa upon arrival. Fortunately, the process was
swift, taking less than five minutes, and it didn’t cost me anything for a
single-entry visa. Note: It’s advisable to opt for a single-entry visa
initially, as you can purchase additional visas if you leave Jordan for
destinations like Israel or Saudi Arabia. This can save you 40 JOD (roughly
£42) for a multiple-entry visa. Alternatively, a Jordan Pass, which serves a
similar purpose, is also available for purchase.
27/3/25:
I didn’t arrive in Aqaba, located at the southern tip of Jordan, until 04:10,
so I went straight to bed and managed to sleep for about four hours. After
waking up, I took a walk around the town. Aqaba is a resort city that mainly
draws visitors for its scuba diving and vibrant nightlife rather than its
historical significance. It embodies the typical characteristics of a desert
city in the Middle East: hot, dry, dusty, and not particularly clean or
organized. I would compare it to Malta, though with less attention to
cleanliness and maintenance. Despite this, I was able to discover some history
in the form of the old Aqaba Fort. Dating back to the early 1500s, the fort
played a significant role in the 1917 Arab uprising.
Personal note: Solo travel is not for everyone; it
can be quite lonely and, at times, disheartening, especially when eating and
drinking alone. ☹
28/3/25:
Personal note #2: Driving in Jordan is an adventure, please take care.
On a more positive note, when my driver arrived and
figured out our itinerary, the journey became smoother. The drive from Aqaba to
Petra, which is around 100 km, took a fair amount of time. When we finally
reached the visitor center, I purchased my entry ticket for 50 JOD (which felt
a bit expensive). I decided to approach Petra from the opposite direction and
would strongly recommend this approach to anyone visiting. This route involves
entering through the rear entrance and walking back toward the visitor center,
rather than retracing your steps, which would add an additional 90 minutes and
about 4-5 kilometres to your journey.
Upon leaving the exit, I began a downhill walk of roughly
a kilometre. The weather was warm (around 28°C) and the sun was direct, so I
recommend carrying plenty of water and wearing something to protect your head.
The first notable site was the Turkumaniyya Tombs (ancient burial
sites carved directly into the rock, some of the oldest structures in Petra).
These tombs, though just one example of many across Petra, highlight the
architectural and cultural significance of the Nabataean civilization. The
tombs are intricately carved and have stood the test of time, providing insight
into the burial practices of the ancient inhabitants of Petra.
Continuing on, the road curves left at Qasr-al-Bint
(a historical temple dedicated to the Nabataean goddess Al-Uzza) as you
make your way down Colonnaded Street. On one side of the street is the
impressive Great Palace, which covers a vast area of 7,000 square
meters. This street once served as the commercial heart of the Nabataean city
and was later upgraded by the Romans around 100-150 AD. Around this time, my
makeshift neck covering, which had been insufficient in the growing heat, led
me to purchase a beautiful Arabic scarf from one of the many vendors.
From the street, I continued down the path, curving right
along the Nymphaeum (a public fountain and Roman monument, typically
adorned with water features), where I saw the stunning tombs, including the
Palace Tomb, the Corinthian Tomb, and the Silk Tomb to the
left. On the right, the ancient Theatre, carved into the cliffs, was an
awe-inspiring sight. The theatre’s seating and stage are all chiselled directly
from the rock, showcasing the incredible engineering capabilities of the
Nabataeans.
At this point, visitors have a choice: you can bear right and ascend the stairs up to the Palace of High Sacrifice (a ceremonial site used for ancient rituals) and continue along the path for about a kilometre, passing a few wadis (Arabic for valleys), before reaching Al-Habis (a hilltop site with panoramic views of Petra). I opted against this trek as the temperature had already exceeded 30°C, and I was keen on preserving my energy for the remaining sites.
Instead, I proceeded forward towards a breathtaking slot
canyon (narrow, deep valley formed by erosion, with steep walls) that rivalled
the famous canyons of southern Utah. The canyon’s beauty was undeniable but, to
be honest, feel those in Utah are prettier. After walking about 500 meters, I
reached the Treasury, perhaps the most iconic structure in Petra. While
it is stunning to look at, and the photos don’t do it justice, there is much
more to see at the site than just the Treasury. Unfortunately, entry to the
Treasury is prohibited, but having seen it in documentaries, I suspect you would
be disappointed even if you could. From here, I followed the path through the
canyon, and of course, made my obligatory purchase of a fridge magnet from one
of the many tourist stalls lining the area.
Personal note #3: The area is filled with numerous
stalls selling similar goods, including scarves, clothing, magnets, and silver
by weight. As expected, the prices are higher than in the surrounding areas, so
be cautious. Additionally, many individuals will approach you attempting to
sell trinkets or offer donkey rides—it's best to avoid them if possible.
After an easy stroll through the rest of the site, I made
my way back to the visitor’s center. The entire journey took me around 2 hours
and 15 minutes, but I took my time. I recommend allowing 2-3 hours if you
follow my route; if you start and finish at the visitor’s center, plan for an
additional 90 minutes.
29/3/25:
The final day of my first solo trip of 2025! The plan for today was to visit
Israel via the border at the Itzhak Rabin Terminal (the official
crossing between Jordan and Israel). I didn’t do much in terms of
preparation for this short excursion—just a quick Google search that suggested
a visa wasn’t required. However, upon arrival, I learned that a visa is in fact
required, even for UK and US citizens. After being sternly admonished by a
particularly daunting middle-aged border guard (the younger guards were much
friendlier), I quickly completed the online visa application. I was approved
for a 7-day visa, which cost 7 shekels (about £2).
Finally, I made my way into Israel and took a taxi to Eilat.
Eilat is another popular tourist destination, primarily known for its nightlife
and scuba diving rather than any historical significance. I managed to do a bit
of sightseeing, but in all honesty, I wasn’t overly impressed by the city.
My primary reason for visiting was to experience Israel
firsthand, but I feel that a future trip to Jerusalem or Tel Aviv would offer a
more authentic and comprehensive experience of the country.
With that, I conclude this blog for my 2025 adventure. I
hope it won’t be long before my next journey is documented!
